AluminumAlloyBoats.com

Hello All! I'm a new registrant and currently completing the purchase of a Stabicraft 2050 Supercab. Very excited to finally be getting into an alloy boat, after years of NON ALLOY hassles. In order to avoid aluminum hassles, I'm seeking advice on sacrificial anodes ("zincs"). I understand aluminum makes the best anode material, and that all anodes on the boat (including outboards) need to be of the same alloy. Any suggestions on sources, methods of mounting, outboard/hull compatibility, etc. Thanks, Mike.

Hey, welcome to AAB. Couple of questions to aid our understanding . . . Is this a used boat? Is the hull bare or bottom painted? Are you planning to leave it in the water for extended periods of time? What kind of trailer supports is it sitting on (bunks or rollers)? Does it currently have anodes?

This is a new boat. I will take delivery within the next week or so. Plan is bunk trailer storage with fishing/commuting use primarily in saltwater. It will frequently spend the weekend in the water, and occasionally up to a few weeks at a time during vacations. Bare alloy from the pontoons down, so the "zincs" will be in direct contact with the hull. Hull bottom is 5083 and pontoons 5052. I assume to get any protection from the outboard's zincs they would need to be kept down in the water, but I like to keep them up when the boat is on the hook, hence my desire to add hull zincs of my own. Have heard aluminum alloy zincs offer superior performance over true zincs, and that magnesium is too low on the scale to be useful in saltwater. But I have no direct experience. Thanks, Mike.

Mike Welcome to AAB
Bob is across the bay from you. I am north of the Tulalip Res. Same Street as Bob Hawley lives on.(Owner of Boat Country) I have Zinc on my boat. The Aluminum will work in either fresh or salt. My zink ones are weld on ones. Yours will be bolt on. Once a year you will want to remove them Clean them and the boat mount plates and then reinstall bare without paint or grease. Boat Zincs.com can help size them for you and they have free shipping I believe. They have Aluminum and they are one of our sponsors.

Take a look at these.

http://www.performancemetals.com/anodes/navalloy.shtml

Did you get your boat from Marty?

westward wrote:This is a new boat. I will take delivery within the next week or so. Plan is bunk trailer storage with fishing/commuting use primarily in saltwater. It will frequently spend the weekend in the water, and occasionally up to a few weeks at a time during vacations. Bare alloy from the pontoons down, so the "zincs" will be in direct contact with the hull. Hull bottom is 5083 and pontoons 5052. I assume to get any protection from the outboard's zincs they would need to be kept down in the water, but I like to keep them up when the boat is on the hook, hence my desire to add hull zincs of my own. Have heard aluminum alloy zincs offer superior performance over true zincs, and that magnesium is too low on the scale to be useful in saltwater. But I have no direct experience. Thanks, Mike.

There should be aluminum tabs on the transom that hull zincs can be attached to. If not have your builder or a welder add some. Aluminum anodes would work great for your boat. Make absolutely certain that your trailer bunks are covered with plastic skids that have no depressions that can hold water against your hull when you load up and especially no bunk carpet in contact with your hull otherwise expect problems. No need to keep your engine down in the water, there is an anode on the bottom of the engine transom clamp that will be in the water at all times anyway. If you decide to protect the hull properly consider epoxy & anti-foul coating the bottom.

I was having the zinc discussion with Armstrong today...

Since we will be keeping the boat in the fresh water, but transferring through the locks regularly in to salt?? What would be best.

They are going to do some research...Has anyone had experience with Navalloy?

http://www.performancemetals.com/anodes/navalloy.shtml

Nice Link Howard. Looks like this next winter I will be changing my Weld ones to some type of Aluminum ones.

http://www.gausanodes.com/gausalum-iii.html

There is another manufacturer with what appears to be the same manufacturer.

Question... What material are the "zincs" aka anodes that the outboard manufacturers are shipping with new motors.

If they are truly zinc, would you want to swap them for aluminum, magnesium or Navalloy if that is what your main anodes are?

Chtucker wrote:http://www.gausanodes.com/gausalum-iii.html

There is another manufacturer with what appears to be the same manufacturer.

Question... What material are the "zincs" aka anodes that the outboard manufacturers are shipping with new motors.

If they are truly zinc, would you want to swap them for aluminum, magnesium or Navalloy if that is what your main anodes are?

new engines ship with aluminum anodes

What is your thought on Navalloy?

Have not tried them, still using traditional zinc on my hull, oem aluminum on my engine, might try the navalloy next time on the hull, see how they do. If I trailer boated I would use the navalloy for sure because they apparently don't need to be cleaned frequently to keep them active.

Thanks for the info. guys. I wonder if the outboard anode on the bottom of the motor mount would be enough by itself to afford protection to the entire hull. This is what Stabicraft's owner suggested at the boat show. He felt that the bonding between the outboard mounting bolts and the hull was adequate for continuity. It is reassuring to hear that the outboard's anodes are aluminum, and that one will sit in the water even with the motor tilted up. that one is pretty big if I remember right. My plan is to keep a close eye on that one at first, then possibly add another to the outboard pod if it's tending to dissolve fast. My boat has only one transom tab, and it will likely be taken up by the 2 transducers I intend to have mounted: one for the sonar and one for the downriggers. Can't wait to get the boat, should be just a matter of days now. Mike.

A bunch of us are in the area if you never need anything. I work in South Lake Union and live in Redmond.

westward wrote:Thanks for the info. guys. I wonder if the outboard anode on the bottom of the motor mount would be enough by itself to afford protection to the entire hull. This is what Stabicraft's owner suggested at the boat show. He felt that the bonding between the outboard mounting bolts and the hull was adequate for continuity. It is reassuring to hear that the outboard's anodes are aluminum, and that one will sit in the water even with the motor tilted up. that one is pretty big if I remember right. My plan is to keep a close eye on that one at first, then possibly add another to the outboard pod if it's tending to dissolve fast. My boat has only one transom tab, and it will likely be taken up by the 2 transducers I intend to have mounted: one for the sonar and one for the downriggers. Can't wait to get the boat, should be just a matter of days now. Mike.

If you aren't keeping the boat in the water for extended periods that one anode might be OK but relying on a connection through the motor bracket to the hull is unreliable. Did I mention to be sure your bunk surfaces are plastic?

Congrats on the new boat!

These are pics of my original zinc (one year wet slipped) Top is the new Navalloy with it. Second pic is the Navalloy (one year wet slipped). The Navalloy looks to me as being more active.
(expand top pic)

not sure what to make of the pictures what does it tell you?