Sato crimping system. Part 1
Posted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 12:17 am
While waiting for my GTS 60 XH and GTS 70 H Hercules Blanks to come in. I was playing around with my Sato Crimp set. Do not know how many are using this system. It has proven itself fishing 200 to 300 lb. Yellowfin tuna out of San Diego.
The only spectra I'll use is Jerry Brown Hollow. This is 80 lb. Hollow to 100 lb. mono. Usually I'll use the soft Aluminum crimp and change top shots every trip. I like short 15 feet topshots. More on why later.
For visual purposes I am using a brass crimp. The hair is used as a referance to show how small the crimp actually is. This tool helps sliding the crimp onto the spectra.
You can have the great Googly Moogly moment if you forget sliding the crimp onto the spectra first. Akin to putting a reel on a rod backwards but not like plowing furrows with your motor down.
Now that is done time to check your eyes and motor skills. A Threading needle tool is so helpful. Getting the needle started is fairly easy. Once started do not push the needle. More like push the line on the needle to advance the line down the needle. The best desciption I can use is like a inch worm movement. Keep things loose when sliding. If you ever played with a Chinese finger trap you want to avoid traping the needle. Later this very principal will help you though.
Cut the 100 lb. topshot line at a sharp angle.
Slide the sharp angle into the end of the threading needle. It should fit snug. (different needles for different line sizes) The needle is hollow so shove the line all the way in. you do not want the line to slip out half way through the process. Make sure the line has no obstructions pulling it from the needle.
So I do not blow Welder's pink princess computer up this will be continued on part 2
Hope this is informational
Mark
2325 Wa Pacificskiff
The only spectra I'll use is Jerry Brown Hollow. This is 80 lb. Hollow to 100 lb. mono. Usually I'll use the soft Aluminum crimp and change top shots every trip. I like short 15 feet topshots. More on why later.
For visual purposes I am using a brass crimp. The hair is used as a referance to show how small the crimp actually is. This tool helps sliding the crimp onto the spectra.
You can have the great Googly Moogly moment if you forget sliding the crimp onto the spectra first. Akin to putting a reel on a rod backwards but not like plowing furrows with your motor down.
Now that is done time to check your eyes and motor skills. A Threading needle tool is so helpful. Getting the needle started is fairly easy. Once started do not push the needle. More like push the line on the needle to advance the line down the needle. The best desciption I can use is like a inch worm movement. Keep things loose when sliding. If you ever played with a Chinese finger trap you want to avoid traping the needle. Later this very principal will help you though.
Cut the 100 lb. topshot line at a sharp angle.
Slide the sharp angle into the end of the threading needle. It should fit snug. (different needles for different line sizes) The needle is hollow so shove the line all the way in. you do not want the line to slip out half way through the process. Make sure the line has no obstructions pulling it from the needle.
So I do not blow Welder's pink princess computer up this will be continued on part 2
Hope this is informational
Mark
2325 Wa Pacificskiff