pacific assassin build
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Re: pacific assassin build
Getting to the fun stuff lol
I wanted the sides of the boat to be a little higher so I added some 6" tall rails. This is made with 1.25" pipe (1.66" OD) the same as Pacific used up front. Glad I have the die for that for my bender. The only poblem is that the 1.25" OD pipe I can get local is in a T6 which while making the pipe tougher is makes it much more brittle and it wants to crack when being bent. Even with tempering it with the torch it will crack often. I think my radius on the die is to tight and my farmer method fo tempering lacks quality control lol. The follower on my die is made for steel so it will also scratch the aluminum while bending. It took mutiple attempts to get two rails with two good bends in them
the other option is to take two good ends and cut and sleeve where one of the supports underneath it land.
I wanted the sides of the boat to be a little higher so I added some 6" tall rails. This is made with 1.25" pipe (1.66" OD) the same as Pacific used up front. Glad I have the die for that for my bender. The only poblem is that the 1.25" OD pipe I can get local is in a T6 which while making the pipe tougher is makes it much more brittle and it wants to crack when being bent. Even with tempering it with the torch it will crack often. I think my radius on the die is to tight and my farmer method fo tempering lacks quality control lol. The follower on my die is made for steel so it will also scratch the aluminum while bending. It took mutiple attempts to get two rails with two good bends in them
the other option is to take two good ends and cut and sleeve where one of the supports underneath it land.
Last edited by noexcuses2 on Thu Mar 03, 2022 8:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: pacific assassin build
with the taller side rails the 3.25" tall back rail looks funny and I would like a little more height there anyway so it is going to get cut out. I also am going to add a rail to the transom door also
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Re: pacific assassin build
Holy cow it bent in one shot with no issues. Looks like I used up all my luck for the day, no use to buy lottery tickets now lol.
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Re: pacific assassin build
Cannot wait to get motors to get it on the water lol. I will check on the amp draw, I am just going to use the house battery. I had Pacific mount a spot for a second house battery if needed.
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Re: pacific assassin build
From the add on fleabay. Mine spins at 84 RPM FSNL.
200w/12a = 16.66 amps continuous amps
1200w/12a = 100amps peak.
these are at 12V
The plastic covers and brake assembly's were removed and ends of the wires were stripped ready to hook to the controller of your choice.
These are brushed dc motors.
200watt continuous / 1200watt peak ratings.
Output shaft rpm is roughly 60rpm at 12v / 120 rpm at 24v.
200w/12a = 16.66 amps continuous amps
1200w/12a = 100amps peak.
these are at 12V
The plastic covers and brake assembly's were removed and ends of the wires were stripped ready to hook to the controller of your choice.
These are brushed dc motors.
200watt continuous / 1200watt peak ratings.
Output shaft rpm is roughly 60rpm at 12v / 120 rpm at 24v.
- welder
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Re: pacific assassin build
She is coming along GREAT, nice work on the rails.
You better be careful or Julie will make you come to work for Pacific.
You better be careful or Julie will make you come to work for Pacific.
Lester,
PacificV2325, Honda BF225
2386
PacificV2325, Honda BF225
2386
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- Location: Kenai, Alaska
Re: pacific assassin build
noex'2,
A couple remarks about bending 6061 T6 pipe.As the pipe is pulled by one part of the bender around the shaped inner die- most pipe will deform at the two edges of the die- if 12:00 if up and 6:00 is inside the bottom die the 3:00 & 9:00 are the top edges of the die.
This 'egging' or oval deformation makes the pipe wider at the edges of the bending die/shoe/form. That is the location where 90+ % of aluminum bending goes wrong, IME. These two points on the die- aluminum dies or steel will not allow the pipe to ‘fill-in’ or slide around... The pipe wall galls because of circular deformity and rough surfaces on the die; when the pipe wall won’t slide- it stops the movement and the bender actually tears the pipe.
So I’ve learned to sand the pipe bending dies on all my machines as smooth as I can- using up to 400 grit paper and spray pan grease as lube. There are fairly inexpensive foam backed hook and loop sanding pads of sizes from 4" down to 1/2" or 3/4" and with these powered by a drill motor you can clean and finish smooth most pipe bending dies in a reasonable amount of time.
Next, when I bend I also slather the bending dies with more grease and lube, trying to make the galling at the edge lips of the dies go away from lubrication. I know one shop that uses candle wax- jar and canning sealing wax or beeswax ($) to do this when bending aluminum.
Last, if you have a Hossfeld (sp?) type bender- on a post- and pull around then the leading edge of those steel dies have also been known to raise a little burr on the pipe wall- and that is the scene of some tears as well. I've seen to Hossfeld knock-offs that gouged the pipe and tore it in two between the inner die edges and this radius pulling block.
A tiny sanded radius on the lead edge of that type bending die; goes a long way to avoid have to turn pipe into scrap and redo the work. I thought you’d be able to con Pacific out of some of their neat looking Oval extrusion? To make hand rails that matched the extrusion at the gunwales? I know, they probably don’t part with much of that stuff! But is sure looks nice.
I’d guess, looking at their work they’ve got dies to fit that cross section as well- so just having a couple lengths of their extrusion might not be the best; if you’d have to make your own dies?
Anyway, just wanted to pass along the results of my hundreds of hours of frustration and countless lengths of broken pipe to save you learning the expensive way to solve this problem.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
A couple remarks about bending 6061 T6 pipe.As the pipe is pulled by one part of the bender around the shaped inner die- most pipe will deform at the two edges of the die- if 12:00 if up and 6:00 is inside the bottom die the 3:00 & 9:00 are the top edges of the die.
This 'egging' or oval deformation makes the pipe wider at the edges of the bending die/shoe/form. That is the location where 90+ % of aluminum bending goes wrong, IME. These two points on the die- aluminum dies or steel will not allow the pipe to ‘fill-in’ or slide around... The pipe wall galls because of circular deformity and rough surfaces on the die; when the pipe wall won’t slide- it stops the movement and the bender actually tears the pipe.
So I’ve learned to sand the pipe bending dies on all my machines as smooth as I can- using up to 400 grit paper and spray pan grease as lube. There are fairly inexpensive foam backed hook and loop sanding pads of sizes from 4" down to 1/2" or 3/4" and with these powered by a drill motor you can clean and finish smooth most pipe bending dies in a reasonable amount of time.
Next, when I bend I also slather the bending dies with more grease and lube, trying to make the galling at the edge lips of the dies go away from lubrication. I know one shop that uses candle wax- jar and canning sealing wax or beeswax ($) to do this when bending aluminum.
Last, if you have a Hossfeld (sp?) type bender- on a post- and pull around then the leading edge of those steel dies have also been known to raise a little burr on the pipe wall- and that is the scene of some tears as well. I've seen to Hossfeld knock-offs that gouged the pipe and tore it in two between the inner die edges and this radius pulling block.
A tiny sanded radius on the lead edge of that type bending die; goes a long way to avoid have to turn pipe into scrap and redo the work. I thought you’d be able to con Pacific out of some of their neat looking Oval extrusion? To make hand rails that matched the extrusion at the gunwales? I know, they probably don’t part with much of that stuff! But is sure looks nice.
I’d guess, looking at their work they’ve got dies to fit that cross section as well- so just having a couple lengths of their extrusion might not be the best; if you’d have to make your own dies?
Anyway, just wanted to pass along the results of my hundreds of hours of frustration and countless lengths of broken pipe to save you learning the expensive way to solve this problem.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
Last edited by kmorin on Mon Mar 07, 2022 9:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: formatting
Reason: formatting
kmorin
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Re: pacific assassin build
kmorin wrote: ↑Mon Mar 07, 2022 9:47 pm noex'2,
A couple remarks about bending 6061 T6 pipe.As the pipe is pulled by one part of the bender around the shaped inner die- most pipe will deform at the two edges of the die- if 12:00 if up and 6:00 is inside the bottom die the 3:00 & 9:00 are the top edges of the die.
This 'egging' or oval deformation makes the pipe wider at the edges of the bending die/shoe/form. That is the location where 90+ % of aluminum bending goes wrong, IME. These two points on the die- aluminum dies or steel will not allow the pipe to ‘fill-in’ or slide around... The pipe wall galls because of circular deformity and rough surfaces on the die; when the pipe wall won’t slide- it stops the movement and the bender actually tears the pipe.
So I’ve learned to sand the pipe bending dies on all my machines as smooth as I can- using up to 400 grit paper and spray pan grease as lube. There are fairly inexpensive foam backed hook and loop sanding pads of sizes from 4" down to 1/2" or 3/4" and with these powered by a drill motor you can clean and finish smooth most pipe bending dies in a reasonable amount of time.
Next, when I bend I also slather the bending dies with more grease and lube, trying to make the galling at the edge lips of the dies go away from lubrication. I know one shop that uses candle wax- jar and canning sealing wax or beeswax ($) to do this when bending aluminum.
Last, if you have a Hossfeld (sp?) type bender- on a post- and pull around then the leading edge of those steel dies have also been known to raise a little burr on the pipe wall- and that is the scene of some tears as well. I've seen to Hossfeld knock-offs that gouged the pipe and tore it in two between the inner die edges and this radius pulling block.
A tiny sanded radius on the lead edge of that type bending die; goes a long way to avoid have to turn pipe into scrap and redo the work. I thought you’d be able to con Pacific out of some of their neat looking Oval extrusion? To make hand rails that matched the extrusion at the gunwales? I know, they probably don’t part with much of that stuff! But is sure looks nice.
I’d guess, looking at their work they’ve got dies to fit that cross section as well- so just having a couple lengths of their extrusion might not be the best; if you’d have to make your own dies?
Anyway, just wanted to pass along the results of my hundreds of hours of frustration and countless lengths of broken pipe to save you learning the expensive way to solve this problem.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
Thanks Kevin, I will have to do some sanding on them. I do lube the follower die and that helps some. They are a bit rough having been used on steel also.
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Re: pacific assassin build
Thanks :), and Julie and crew will get to see it here in a couple of weeks as I am going to have them open up the wire gutter (below deck 4" square tubing) on the Port side. With me having a air chamber instead of foam below deck, where it gets cut through the floor in the cabin area needs to be seal welded to the gutter below.
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Re: pacific assassin build
new back rail, I moved the right sided over a couple inches to match up with the transom door rail.
transom door rail and a pole holder on the rail
transom door rail and a pole holder on the rail
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Re: pacific assassin build
two rod holders on the back deck, I will have to run leashes with these style rod holders.
The rod holders only hang outside the boat 2.5"
front rod holders, one right by the cabin so it will be close to hand while driving the boat.
The rod holders only hang outside the boat 2.5"
front rod holders, one right by the cabin so it will be close to hand while driving the boat.
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Re: pacific assassin build
so Suzuki and Furuno have combined with a new feature called fishhunter drive. It has a couple of great options that I wanted. Only available with APC4 motors, Furuno Navpilot 300 and SPC 2.0 controls. I had the SPC 1.0 controls so to get those two (point lock and sabaki lock) I had to upgrade controls.
https://www.furunousa.com/-/media/sites ... -flyer.pdf
https://www.furunousa.com/-/media/sites ... -flyer.pdf
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Re: pacific assassin build
built a base mount for the bleed bucket, I will strap the top to the hand rails
I did not want it there full time so I built some tabs for it to bolt it down when HOPEFULLY needed for tuna season
I did not want it there full time so I built some tabs for it to bolt it down when HOPEFULLY needed for tuna season
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Re: pacific assassin build
ook her down to fill here up with fuel, only a 190 gallons instead of the 200 that I was hoping for lol. That will work, took quite a few times when the pump would only allow $100 at a time. Brought her back home and gave her a quick bath.
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Re: pacific assassin build
starting to work on the bait prep table. Will have a UMHW base to protect knife edges. Will not mount it untill motors are mounted so that it is not too low and gets hit by motors. will also figure out where the drains will go so that it does not puke it all over the motor
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Re: pacific assassin build
while I was waiting for motors to be installed I made a bit more progress on the bait prep table
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Re: pacific assassin build
got the call and had to go fight the portland traffic on the way home
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Re: pacific assassin build
I got the 2 hrs of break in time at 3k rpm and the one hr of 4k rpm done this weekend. Now I can run it up to max rpm as long as its not for longer then 5 min. and vary the speed fo rthe next seven hrs. So I have some numbers
Ok I am running 15x22 Solas 4 blades.
2500 RPM's was around 15 mph at 2.8 mpg
3000 was around 18-19 mph at about the same mpg
3500 was 25 mph at 3 mpg
4k was 30-31 mph at 2.8 mpg
I topped out hitting the rev limiter when I was trying to trim it up to two bars of trim. If I kept it below two bars it would not hit the rev limiter.
So top speed was 50 mph at 1.4 mpg This was headed downriver, when I turned upcurrent my mpg would drop a tenth or two and mph would drop a couple mph. So in calm water no current probably a tenth off those numbers for mpg and a mph or soo loss.. Boat runs great and when the motors were trimmed down would not blow out the props no matter the speed or sharpness of the turn. Very little bow rise on launch.
This was just me in the boat with 175 gallons of fuel. So not light but not a tuna load.
Ok I am running 15x22 Solas 4 blades.
2500 RPM's was around 15 mph at 2.8 mpg
3000 was around 18-19 mph at about the same mpg
3500 was 25 mph at 3 mpg
4k was 30-31 mph at 2.8 mpg
I topped out hitting the rev limiter when I was trying to trim it up to two bars of trim. If I kept it below two bars it would not hit the rev limiter.
So top speed was 50 mph at 1.4 mpg This was headed downriver, when I turned upcurrent my mpg would drop a tenth or two and mph would drop a couple mph. So in calm water no current probably a tenth off those numbers for mpg and a mph or soo loss.. Boat runs great and when the motors were trimmed down would not blow out the props no matter the speed or sharpness of the turn. Very little bow rise on launch.
This was just me in the boat with 175 gallons of fuel. So not light but not a tuna load.
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Re: pacific assassin build
short video of trying to blow out the props in a turn or getting some sliding
https://youtu.be/kGg2GfD7OaI
https://youtu.be/kGg2GfD7OaI
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- welder
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Re: pacific assassin build
Thanks for the videos, she is a fishing machine for sure.
Lester,
PacificV2325, Honda BF225
2386
PacificV2325, Honda BF225
2386