Best Way To Split aluminum Pipe
Best Way To Split aluminum Pipe
Hi, I need to split 20' sections of aluminum pipe for the rub rails on my boat. What have you found to be the best way to split aluminum pipe in half?
Re: Best Way To Split aluminum Pipe
I would think a band saw would be the way to do it, you could put a fence on one side to make it easier.
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Re: Best Way To Split aluminum Pipe
My attempt with a band saw was a failure (not saying it can't be done)......as I cut the tubing it would twist and turned into a nigh mare Very uneven cut.......
I called Bill Stone (welder that did my rails) and he said they snap a line and use a fine tooth blade on a skill saw.....this worked perfect Nice straight line...this was in 2" schedule 40 pipe which has about a 2 3/8" OD
Hope this helps
AT
I called Bill Stone (welder that did my rails) and he said they snap a line and use a fine tooth blade on a skill saw.....this worked perfect Nice straight line...this was in 2" schedule 40 pipe which has about a 2 3/8" OD
Hope this helps
AT
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Re: Best Way To Split aluminum Pipe
Alaska copper and brass in Seattle sells 2.5 dia. half pipe. It is already cut straight and in 20' sections. Look at your local supplier to see if they offer it. I used a circular saw to slice my one inch pipe to slide over my roof edge after I formed it. was challenging to say the least. I have a section of it now waiting for after fishing season slows down to do it. Rub Rails that is.
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Re: Best Way To Split aluminum Pipe
ehsvp
If you can't buy 2" (2-3/8" OD ) half pipe or 3" (3-1/2" OD) half pipe extrusions in your area then you can slice pipe using the table saw or bandsaw.
wood screws in the plastic holding it to the plywood makes a serviceable guide.
if you have any angle (?) screw the guide to that and clamp the angle to the table's fence. TDC marks on the guides and a magic marker line drawn with an angle laid against the tube makes the cut flat/non-spiral.
You need to take time to make a guide; Sched 80 2-1/2" will plastic (ABS/PVC) will (usually) slip on 2" aluminum- if not slice one side so it springs open a little. If you use a foot or two secured to some plywood then it will guide the pipe/blade interface and you'll get a decent cut. Put a line on the pipe and keep that line on the TDC mark on your guide and it should work fine.
I like to use generic frying pan spray to lube the blade and the pipe in the guide, this makes a mess but wipes up and keeps the blade(s) unloaded so your cuts are clean.
If the pipe will be used on the topsides and the cuts aren't very nice then the welds, even stitches, will 'draw' the sides into a series of waves or dips to match the cut. I nicely guided cut with a little Vixen file fairing to clean up the burrs, will lay to the side of the hull nicely.
If you will be wrapping the 1/2 pipe along the topsides forward the master station, widest point of the hull where it turns to the bow, then mark the weld points as the tacks along the entire length but only tack the after sides where the hull is reasonably straight. Then drill holes in the half pipe at the 3:00 O'clock position every 12"=18" inches an all the way through the topsides. Then put 1/4" thread rod in the holes to draw up the shape to the topsides. Inside put a pc. of 1/4" and large fender washer to keep the bulge of the topsides fair and smooth while the 1/2 pipe draws in tight.
Don't tack forward the turn, where the bolts are holding the extrusion to the sides until the entire length is on so you can adjust up and down the shape and make it fair, then tack from the stern forward following the weld planned beginning and end marks. The tacks are in sets for a stitch welded external extrusion. Each tack is 'one dime' or one weld puddle inside the weld pattern so it will be consumed in the final weld.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
If you can't buy 2" (2-3/8" OD ) half pipe or 3" (3-1/2" OD) half pipe extrusions in your area then you can slice pipe using the table saw or bandsaw.
wood screws in the plastic holding it to the plywood makes a serviceable guide.
if you have any angle (?) screw the guide to that and clamp the angle to the table's fence. TDC marks on the guides and a magic marker line drawn with an angle laid against the tube makes the cut flat/non-spiral.
You need to take time to make a guide; Sched 80 2-1/2" will plastic (ABS/PVC) will (usually) slip on 2" aluminum- if not slice one side so it springs open a little. If you use a foot or two secured to some plywood then it will guide the pipe/blade interface and you'll get a decent cut. Put a line on the pipe and keep that line on the TDC mark on your guide and it should work fine.
I like to use generic frying pan spray to lube the blade and the pipe in the guide, this makes a mess but wipes up and keeps the blade(s) unloaded so your cuts are clean.
If the pipe will be used on the topsides and the cuts aren't very nice then the welds, even stitches, will 'draw' the sides into a series of waves or dips to match the cut. I nicely guided cut with a little Vixen file fairing to clean up the burrs, will lay to the side of the hull nicely.
If you will be wrapping the 1/2 pipe along the topsides forward the master station, widest point of the hull where it turns to the bow, then mark the weld points as the tacks along the entire length but only tack the after sides where the hull is reasonably straight. Then drill holes in the half pipe at the 3:00 O'clock position every 12"=18" inches an all the way through the topsides. Then put 1/4" thread rod in the holes to draw up the shape to the topsides. Inside put a pc. of 1/4" and large fender washer to keep the bulge of the topsides fair and smooth while the 1/2 pipe draws in tight.
Don't tack forward the turn, where the bolts are holding the extrusion to the sides until the entire length is on so you can adjust up and down the shape and make it fair, then tack from the stern forward following the weld planned beginning and end marks. The tacks are in sets for a stitch welded external extrusion. Each tack is 'one dime' or one weld puddle inside the weld pattern so it will be consumed in the final weld.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
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Re: Best Way To Split aluminum Pipe
Thanks for that Kevin. I have been trying to think of a way to do that. It is really a simple method, but yet so effective.
Thanks,
Nate
Thanks,
Nate
Re: Best Way To Split aluminum Pipe
Thank you Kevin, good suggestions!!
Bob
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Re: Best Way To Split aluminum Pipe
If you feel comfortable with a circulars saw , drawing a straight line,and cutting by hand maybe the fastest way to split a full length of pipe. I use to put a guild in the table saw that kept the kerf open. It takes a least two people to guide the pipe thru.
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Re: Best Way To Split aluminum Pipe
I didn't have this drawn so I neglected to show the one off method that is most helpful. this should give good safety and tool handling and I believe this image is all the explanation needed?
lots of people have said to cut the pipe with a skill saw and I agree, what is troublesome, but is doesn't have to be, is how to hold the pipe when you do that cut. I use two long 2x6's held together with furniture style pipe clamps and the two boards will usually form a decent table to walk the saw along during the cut.
I still make a line on the pipe side wall with an angle/extrusion and I don't try to slice all the way through in one cut with this method; it tends to get loose behind you from the removed material in the saw kerf being missing top and bottom from the pipe's wall. This will slit pipe accurately and slice pipe as well, when I've cut a few feet of the second side I put screw drivers or wedges in the saw kert- or tighten the furniture clamps behind the cut area, but far enough back not to pinch the blade so you can't start without plunging, which I'd like to avoid if possible.
If you're only doing this job once maybe this is easier, than making the jig(s). welderbob, if you use roller stands of even saw horses with some wood "superstructure" to hold the pipe when its coming into and feeding out of the fixed saws, it can be done with one guy, but it sure makes life simple to have another set of hands.
cheers,
Kevin Morin
lots of people have said to cut the pipe with a skill saw and I agree, what is troublesome, but is doesn't have to be, is how to hold the pipe when you do that cut. I use two long 2x6's held together with furniture style pipe clamps and the two boards will usually form a decent table to walk the saw along during the cut.
I still make a line on the pipe side wall with an angle/extrusion and I don't try to slice all the way through in one cut with this method; it tends to get loose behind you from the removed material in the saw kerf being missing top and bottom from the pipe's wall. This will slit pipe accurately and slice pipe as well, when I've cut a few feet of the second side I put screw drivers or wedges in the saw kert- or tighten the furniture clamps behind the cut area, but far enough back not to pinch the blade so you can't start without plunging, which I'd like to avoid if possible.
If you're only doing this job once maybe this is easier, than making the jig(s). welderbob, if you use roller stands of even saw horses with some wood "superstructure" to hold the pipe when its coming into and feeding out of the fixed saws, it can be done with one guy, but it sure makes life simple to have another set of hands.
cheers,
Kevin Morin
kmorin
Re: Best Way To Split aluminum Pipe
I've done this for shorter pieces of PVC pipe. But it involves drilling a few holes.
I drill a 1/8in holes thru the pipe. I then drill one side larger so the screw head will go thru it.
Then using a long straight board, I lay the pipe against the board and screw the pipe to the board. This acts as a straight edge and keeps the pipe from rolling. Then just set the fence on the tablesaw and let her rip.
I drill a 1/8in holes thru the pipe. I then drill one side larger so the screw head will go thru it.
Then using a long straight board, I lay the pipe against the board and screw the pipe to the board. This acts as a straight edge and keeps the pipe from rolling. Then just set the fence on the tablesaw and let her rip.
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Re: Best Way To Split aluminum Pipe
WOW......I'd have to let a serious pro do all this. Couldn'ty and wouldn't trust my lack of skills.
But I so badly want rub rails on the side of my beater too!!!!
But I so badly want rub rails on the side of my beater too!!!!
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Re: Best Way To Split aluminum Pipe
Drilling two holes is a good idea for splitting the pipes. It is quite easier than to use other technique that requires more effort. Just try it and you will see the difference!